Archives July 2025

A rain jacket is one of the first pieces of performance outdoor equipment many outdoor enthusiasts purchase. The primary reason is that a waterproof shell is among the most important pieces of gear for comfort and safety when a storm rolls in or the wind starts to howl. The models tested in our rain jacket review span affordable rain protection options for day hikes and general around-town use, as well as ultralight rain protection for climbing, long-distance backpacking, and trail running. Whether you’re searching for your first jacket, a modern replacement for an old favorite, or an ultralight model to add to your quiver, you’re in the right place.

Construction 101: 2, 2.5, and 3-layer Fabrics

Nearly every manufacturer clearly lists how many layers their jacket is constructed with, but if you’re like many people, you’ve likely wondered, What does that even mean? Are more layers better? Worse? What are the pros and cons of each, and most importantly, how should this affect what products you consider?

Most rain shell fabrics use a 2, 2.5, and 3-layer construction, even though nearly all of them only look like a single layer when you hold them at the store because these layers are tightly-sandwiched and laminated together. Whether a 2, 2.5, or 3-layer fabric, these designs share most of their construction qualities, with only a small difference generally presenting on the inside facing side of the garment. All three styles feature an outer shell fabric, commonly referred to as a face fabric, which is coated with a chemical Durable Water Repellent (AKA: DWR, more on this below) finish to help keep the outer layer from absorbing water.

The second, or middle layer, is the actual waterproof layer, whether eVent, Gore-Tex, another proprietary membrane generally made of polyester or nylon, or a coated fabric.

3-Layer Fabrics

Three-layer builds feature an external DWR-treated face fabric with a waterproof, breathable membrane in the middle (that could be any of the types listed above), in addition to a super-thin polyurethane (PU) film or other similar backing on the inside of the product. The goal of the third layer is to keep sweat and oils from clogging the microscopic holes in the waterproof-breathable layer. This reduces breathability and will likely make the user feel wet from sweat, that they might think is coming from the outside.

The advantage of a three-layer build is that they are typically the most durable because the innermost layer, which protects the waterproof membrane’s pores from clogging (at least for longer), thus maintaining better breathability between washings. The disadvantage of three-layer pieces is that they are not always as breathable and are often slightly heavier than many of their 2 or 2.5 layer counterparts.

2.5-Layer Fabrics

Outerwear with a 2.5 layer construction looks similar to those with a three-layer design but may feel slightly lighter in hand. Jackets made of a 2.5 layer material still have the same outermost layer (the face fabric) treated with DWR, which minimizes how much water is absorbed by encouraging moisture to shed, thus helping to protect the waterproof layer below. A “middle” waterproof layer applies as well. However, in the case of three-layer builds, this can be anything from an ePTFE membrane to a coated piece of nylon. In contrast, in 2.5-layer jackets, it is generally a treatment that’s “painted on” instead. This is why it’s considered a half layer (yes, the painted on layer is the half-layer), even if it covers all of the inside surface area. Such a strategy makes for a much thinner and lightweight result than what most 3-layer garments can offer.

Jackets with a 2.5 layer construction also offer similar degrees of breathability to what is seen in 3-layer jackets, though they may occasionally feel marginally clammier, depending on the innermost lining fabric. Why? The innermost layer doesn’t do quite as good of a job at “absorbing” and transferring sweat compared to the innermost lining fabric featured on most three-layer models. 2.5-layer jackets are typically slightly lighter and more packable, but often are not quite as durable (and must be cleaned more frequently to maintain a similar level of breathability). It is worth noting that this portion of the market has grown substantially over the past few years, showing more updates and improvement in design. Some 2.5 layer jackets now deliver a far less clammy experience than what was notable in earlier iterations.

2-Layer Fabrics

There has been a big change in 2-layer fabrics in the last year or two. Traditionally, 2-layer products would have the same DWR face fabric bonded to a waterproof-breathable layer but include a loose (typically mesh) liner hanging on the inside. This style fell out of favor as 2.5-layer models became more affordable, and 2-layer garments with their hanging mesh liner were heavier, bulkier, and generally less comfortable.

Recently Gore-Tex has re-introduced a 2-layer design in the form of Gore-Tex Paclite Plus. Paclite Plus has the same exterior face fabric laminated to a waterproof membrane. Still, instead of a laminated layer (like a 3-layer) or spraying on a protective coating (like a 2.5-layer) Gore has instead textured the inside of the waterproof membrane in such a way to increase its abrasion resistance, rendering a half-layer treatment or full third layer unnecessary. Sticking with only two layers means that such a garment is more breathable than many, as moisture has less fabric to travel through. It also reduces overall weight due to the decrease in materials. It’s worth noting that Paclite Plus is made of a different construction than the older Gore Paclite, which used a traditional 2.5-layer construction. Other 2-layer materials may not yet claim the same performance upgrades.

Waterproof Membrane Types

ePTFE Fabrics:

Gore-Tex is an ePTFE waterproof-breathable fabric that is the oldest and most widely known and has become somewhat of the Kleenex of the waterproof-breathable fabric world. On a fundamental level, Gore-Tex is a polytetrafluoroethylene (or ePTFE for short) membrane stretched to a specific dimension. At this dimension, water vapor can escape. Still, liquid water cannot enter due to both the sizes of the pores (which are 20,000 times smaller than a water droplet) and the material’s extremely low surface tension, which cannot absorb liquid water without tremendous pressure. Kinda cool, right?

Polytetrafluoroethylene is a huge word, but you might have heard it because of its slightly better-known name from the DuPont brand: Teflon. W.L. Gore always tries to improve their products and understands the valuable market share the Gore-Tex brand occupies. They want to do their best to maintain that good reputation. To better achieve that end, the company has strict rules and restrictions for manufacturers that want to use their product. For example, they set rules on face fabrics, interior fabrics, zippers, and, in some cases, applications to help maintain their reputation of “Guaranteed to Keep You Dry.”

Gore-Tex with Paclite technology is now slowly evolving into Gore-Tex PacLite Plus. Its earlier iteration was known as Gore-Tex Paclite, a 2.5 layer fabric with a normal Gore-Tex membrane paired with a proprietary super-thin half layer that completely covers the inside. Gore keeps exact specifications pretty locked up, but it more or less has the same properties as most 2.5 layer models (being lighter, more subtle, and slightly more breathable) but uses Gore-Tex as the waterproof membrane. Gore-Tex PacLite Plus is the next evolution, as it replaces the innermost layer of the older Paclite material entirely and instead textures the inside of that waterproof membrane in such a way to resist dirt and grime while increasing durability.

In the last part of our three-part series on layering clothing we explain how to layer for winter and different outdoor conditions. We provide details and examples on common layer combinations for different types of activities. These systems reflect our bias to travel fast and light while staying prepared and safe in changing conditions.

Layering Systems

Here’s an overview of the three articles in this series:

• How to Layer Clothing to Keep Warm – How modern technical clothing is designed to work as a layered system. We explain each layer from base to outer shell.
• Why You Get Cold in the Mountains – How and why you lose (and gain) heat during outdoor activities? How can a layered system help?
• How to Layer Clothing for Winter and All Seasons (current article) – Recommended layered clothing combinations for practical situations ranging from all-day hikes to extreme mountaineering.

Summer Half-Day-Activities

 (Two-Layer System)

For a half-day hike in the summer, or a short multi-pitch rock climb, we prefer a two-layer system. Since it’s warm, and you’re never too far from civilization, there is no need to overdo it with insulated layers. But keep in mind that if it gets windy or stormy, you will need some protection until you can retreat or find cover.

1. Base — Start with a performance shirt or long underwear base layer. It could be long-sleeved or short-sleeved depending on the amount of sun exposure you expect and how hot the temps are, and you could select either wool or synthetic materials. That said, you’ll see us heading out in a long-sleeved, zip-necked wool shirt as a base layer.
2. Outer — For your second layer, if you are concerned about space and weight, choose a lightweight, compressible wind jacket such as the Patagonia Houdini. Or choose a windproof fleece such as the Arc’teryx Fortrez Hoody. Lastly, if there is a chance you might see some moisture throughout the day, a windproof soft shell like the Outdoor Research Ferrosi Hooded that is also mostly water resistant will do the trick.

Summer Full-Day Activities

 (Three-layer system)

A full-day in the mountains can bring surprises. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in many mountain areas, especially in July-Sept, and can arrive with little warning. Being caught in the backcountry in such a storm, and facing a hike out without adequate protection, is not just uncomfortable, it can be dangerous. Whether it’s a day hike, or a serious alpine rock climb, we’re going to tuck a bit more in our rucksack just in case something goes wrong. While your “three-hour tour” may go better than the one in Gilligan’s Island, we advocate being prepared for the combination of a twisted ankle and an unexpected storm in the back country.

Multi-Day Backpack Layers

There’s frankly not a huge difference between our Full-Day layer system and what we bring on a multi-day backpack trip. Mostly, we’ll just assume that bad weather will occur, and the time to get out if things go wrong will be longer. In short, we’re a bit more conservative.

1. Base — We’ll choose a light merino wool long-sleeve base layer with a zip neck. But, we might toss in a light short sleeved performance shirt as a luxury.
2. Mid — We’ll forgo the fleece for the hooded version of light insulated jacket such as the Patagonia Down Sweater. While a fleece jacket is comfy, a light insulated jacket is more robust, and will keep you warmer in a broader range of circumstances.
3. Outer Shell — Top it off with a shell that is appropriate for the conditions. For a multi-day backpack we’ll assume significant rain and bring a hardshell or quality rain jacket along with some rain pants.

In addition to the above, we’ll bring a warm hat, a headlamp (and extra batteries), a whistle, athletic tape (in case of a twisted ankle), along with our usual assortment of backpacking gear.

Winter Wanderings

 (Four-Layer System)

For even colder and wetter activities, such as skiing, snowboarding, ice climbing, or moderate mountaineering, 4 layers work best to allow you to cool off during the hard aerobic parts of your day and stay warm during the slow or stormy periods. Layers can be removed and added as needed throughout the day.

1. Base — Start with a long underwear layer, shirt and bottoms. Thinner usually works best so that you don’t overheat while charging uphill. As always, we’ll choose a light merino wool long-sleeve base layer with a zip neck.
2. Mid — Select a fleece that you like best. It should be light to mid-weight such as the Patagonia R1 and R2, or the Arc’teryx Caliber Hoody. It can be thinner than the fleece you would choose for a three-piece layering system, because in this system you will also have an insulated layer.
3. Insulating — For an insulated layer, pick something relatively lightweight, and it can be either down or synthetic insulation. It should be able to fit over your fleece and under your shell layer. While we prefer a light down sweater-style jacket with a hood, in winter conditions where your jacket may get wet, a synthetic insulated jacket is wise. Synthetics weigh a bit more and are bulkier than down alternatives, but they retain their insulating properties when wet. If we’re in the back country on a multi-day ski trip, the additional weight and bulk of synthetic is well worth it. Our favorite insulating layer jackets for winter include the Arc’Teryx Atom SV and Mountain Hardwear Zonal.
4. Outer Shell — A protective hard shell layer is where it’s at. If you are playing in snow, whether it is shredding, back country skiing, or snowshoeing, you are bound to get wet, which is something you don’t want. A Gore-Tex or EVent jacket such as the RAB Latok Alpine jacket will keep you dry while still providing some level of breathability.

Also, a warm hat that completely covers your ears, a balaclava and a neck gaiter (buff) are recommended.

With all of the options out there, it can be daunting to find the best winter boots to fit your needs. Narrowing down the selection as much as possible will help make the decision much easier and quicker. This article aims to explain the different styles of winter boots and their best uses, highlight design components for consideration, and help you narrow down your choices so you can pick the perfect boot for your needs. If you want to see our favorite boots, including our recommendations for different purposes, check out our complete review of winter boots for men.

Types of Winter Boots

The winter boots that we tested and reviewed broadly fit into a few different categories based on their design, features, and intent. Below we detail the ins and outs of each type.

Pac Boots

This category of winter boots includes footwear with big rubber soles, tons of insulation, and calf-height uppers. Their name comes from the Pac, or moccasin slipper, traditionally worn inside an outer boot layer with a rubber shell around the foot and tall leather uppers to protect the calf from deep snow. They are often comprised of a soft, insulated liner that slips inside of an outer waterproof shell, or an insulating layer fixed underneath a weather-resistant shell material.

Sorel is the brand that catapulted the Pac boot into the modern lexicon when they introduced their now famous Caribou model in 1962. Two years later, they released the Sorel 1964 Premium T. Since then, many manufacturers have begun producing similar styles. Pac boots provide the best weather protection and warmth amongst many types of winter boots.

The major downside to Pac boots is that they are often bulky and clumsy. Also, they sometimes suffer from a sloppy fit that is hard to get snug. As such, they are best used for activities where dexterous footwork isn’t needed, and they are too heavy and bulky for winter hiking. These boots are great for casual use around town or for winter chores like chopping wood and shoveling.Purposes: Winter chores, snowmobiling and sledding, casual errands

Insulated Winter Hiking Boots

These boots are designed to keep your feet warm and dry on the trails all winter long. They fit much better than Pac boots, feeling more like a sneaker or summer hiking boots. They also have less insulation than Pac boots because your feet will naturally produce heat during activity. They use waterproof materials, but the uppers don’t reach as far up the calves, which helps you walk with more comfort and flexibility. And, they have high-traction soles to grip slippery trails and snowy surfaces. These boots are great for active winter activities like outdoor work and chores on dry surfaces, winter hikes, and general town use when the snow isn’t deep.

The main downside to winter hiking boots is that they compromise on warmth and weather protection to allow the user to walk with ease. So, these boots aren’t helpful in the most extreme winter climates or in snowy conditions while shoveling or sledding. For users in warmer winter climates where precipitation falls as rain as much as snow and where the snow doesn’t pile up deeply every winter, these could be an everyday boot. But for snowy winter climates, a taller and warmer boot is needed. If you’re looking for something for multi-day winter camping or hiking trips, you can read our review of mountaineering boots for more options on double-layer boots.

Slip-On Work Boots

Slip-on boots do not use a lacing system. They often have large handles or pull tabs to help get them on or a loose enough cuff that sliding a foot right in is an easy task. Slip-on boots are made out of many materials, including rubber, neoprene, leather, textile, or sheepskin. They may or may not be insulated depending on the application the boot is designed for and may have varying degrees of water resistance and walking comfort. The main advantage of slip-on boots is convenience.

Slip-on work boots are a long-time favorite for chores and dirty, wet jobs that require the utmost weather protection. They are simple, durable, and easily cleaned shell boots that are easy to put on and take off, and they allow the user to simply step into the boot, pants included. They are very protective and come with varying levels of warmth, depending on the thickness of insulation used in the shell. Because they are designed with slip-on convenience in mind, they often suffer from loose and baggy fits. Work-oriented slip-on boots aren’t very comfortable to walk in, and they don’t offer much precision.

Chelsea Boots

Chelsea boots are a specific style of leather slip-on boot that was popularized in London in the 1960s and have made a resurgence in recent years. These boots are stylish, and their leather outers provide decent weather resistance, but the elastic patch that allows the boots to expand to slip on easily and then retract for a snug fit also allows water to penetrate at very low heights. These boots will not protect your feet if you step into a puddle deeper than a few inches.

But if the weather is dry and cool instead of snowy and frigid, these boots provide enough protection. Our favorite part about these boots is that they can transition from looking stylish indoors and around the city to being relatively effective in colder winter climates. They can even be used for light-duty chores and outdoor work. Many users in cold urban climates wear these boots 90% of winter days.

Enjoying the mountains to the fullest extent requires knowing how to dress. With the right clothes, an afternoon alpine thunderstorm can make for a surreal and magical experience in the backcountry. But, unprepared, that same storm might leave you recalling a shivering, wicked-cold, misery tour (or worse).

This three-part article is designed to share expert advice and know-how for staying warm in the mountains. We’ll give you an overview of how layering systems work to keep you warm and dry, why you get cold, and our favorite layering systems for different activities and conditions.Here’s an overview of the three articles in this series:

• How to Layer Clothing to Keep Warm – (this article you are reading) Covers how modern technical clothing is designed to work as a layered system and explains each layer from base to outer shell.
• Why You Get Cold in the Mountains – Provides background information on exactly how and why you lose (and gain) heat during outdoor activities, and how a layered system addresses those thermodynamics.
• How to Layer Clothing for Each Season – The part of the series where the rubber meets the road and we provide recommended layered clothing combinations for practical situations ranging from an all-day hike in the mountains to extreme mountaineering.

In this section you are reading we’ll focus on how modern technical clothing is designed to be used as a layered system: each layer serving a purpose in keeping you warm, allowing you to combine different layers to tackle different conditions with grace and style. While layers play a less critical role when car camping, when you engage in athletic exercise, whether it’s hiking, skiing, or climbing, a layered system provides you to the tools to avoid overheating when you are working hard, and yet stay warm when you stop.

Types of Layers

Below we list the different types of layers, which can be used in combination with each other to reach the ideal effect for the season, environment, and activity you are pursuing. These layers work together to achieve the four goals of wicking moisture, trapping in heat, insulating from cold, and blocking wind and weather.

Today, increasing numbers of outdoor-savvy people choose wool over synthetics for their base layer. Why? Many feel that wool insulates better than synthetic base layers when it’s cold, and stays more comfortable over a larger temperature gradient when its hot. Although wool takes longer to dry than synthetics, it continues to insulate well even when wet. Today, wool base layers are made primarily out of merino wool, which is thin and lightweight, less itchy than traditional wool, and does not retain stench. Here at OutdoorGearLab, the Editors prefer wool base layers for most activities. However, we do notice that wool tears and abrades much more easily when rubbed against a rough surface, a key advantage of synthetics for activities such as rock climbing. For activities such as hiking, wool base layers work wonders.

Base layers come in different weights, so depending on the conditions you expect to be in you may select a thicker, more insulating base layer. However, you may be surprised to learn that most mountaineers prefer thin base layers. The reason is that when performing strenuous activities, even in cold environments, overheating can be as big a problem as keeping warm. If you plan on being in cold conditions but also plan on aerobic activity, such as in mountaineering or nordic skiing, typically a thinner base layer is the wisest choice because it helps wick the sweat the best when you are working hard. Rely on the layers above your base layer for insulation. Your base layer’s key function is to manage the conditions right next to your skin.

Lastly, we prefer a zip-neck base layer, which gives you another tool to conveniently regulate body temperature. Alpine activities such as hiking, climbing, or backcountry skiing can seem like an endless cycle of putting on and taking off clothing. A zippered neck can often save you the time required to stop and shed an outer layer. The additional cooling of an open neck is substantial when you are working hard, and easy to zip up when you take a rest.